Prime your minis! Grab your brushes! Mix up some paint! It’s time to Paint Like an Amateur!

Welcome to Paint Like an Amateur! With this article I’ll be walking through my process of painting the Skeleton Boss from Megacon Games’ Myth board game. For the Myth miniatures I am aiming for a chunky cartoon look representative of the art from the game. In this article I’ll be outlining each step that I took in the painting process. Feel free to ask any questions in the comments below.

A note on paint thinning: All paints, unless specified otherwise are mixed with equal parts water. If I say “equal parts red and black” this means that 1/3 is red, 1/3 is black and 1/3 is water. If I say “pure” color it means 1/2 paint and 1/2 water. Thinning your paints is important. You can always add paint but it is difficult to remove paint once too much has been applied. When in doubt thinner is better.

To begin I washed the mini in warm water with a bit of soap and allowed it to dry overnight. After the mini was dry I sprayed it with Citadel White Primer and again let it sit overnight.

Prime time!

I began painting the mini starting with all of the exposed bone. My base-coat consisted of equal parts Dead White and Bonewhite.


After coating the bone I painted all of the cloth with pure Gory Red. I mixed a shade color of equal parts Royal Purple and Gory Red and painted this into the recesses of the cloth as well as into the recesses between the vertebrae, eye sockets, teeth and ribs.

Once the cloth was dry I highlighted the raised areas of the cloth with equal parts Gory Red and Bloody Red followed by a final highlight of pure Bloody Red.

Remember, thinner paint is better.

Next I moved on to the ribcage and spine of the boss itself and the neck-cloths of the smaller skeletons.

I painted pure Charred Brown over the ribs and spine. I then highlighted with equal parts Bonewhite and Charred Brown. For the neck-cloth I first used pure Beastly Brown followed by a highlight of equal parts Beastly Brown and Bonewhite.

Bone and cloth

I wasn’t happy with the amount of contrast that I had on the model and wanted deeper shadows so I washed all of the bone and the neck-cloths with Nuln Oil. This made the bone much darker than I wanted but really deepened the shadows in the recesses of the mini.

Wash...shade...who cares what you call it.

I decided to paint the wooden parts next. I first used pure Charred Brown then I painted the ends of all of the wood with pure Khaki. I highlighted the Charred Brown by drybrushing on undiluted Earth.

I decided that I wanted the “arms’ to be a lighter greyish color to more closely resemble the art so I drybrushed them with undiluted Cold Grey.

After the Cold Grey I washed all of the wooden bits, with the exception of the Khaki ends, with Nuln Oil. The Khaki ends I washed with Agrax Earthshade.

I then added a final highlight to the darker wood with a light drybrush of undiluted Khaki and I added a drybrush of undiluted Stonewall Grey to the arms.

Skeleton wood always up to no good

For the armor I began with the chestplate. I painted the chestplate with a mix of 2/3 Khaki to 1/3 Chainmail Silver. This allowed the chestplate to have a more matte finish than the shoulders which I painted with a 1/2 Khaki 1/2 Chainmail Silver blend.

I then coated the swords, the metal rings on the arms, shield bosses and the edges of the shoulder pads with pure Chainmail Silver before following up with a pure Silver coat on the cutting edge of the blade and a 2/3 Gunmetal Metal 1/3 Black mix on the back of the blade and on the lower jaw.

I used the Gunmetal Metal/Black mixture to low-light the edges of the shoulder pads and the inside of the metal arm-rings as well before using pure Silver to highlight the very edges, the shield bosses and to highlight the edges of the lower jaw.

I then retouched the filigree on the chest plate and also shaded the broken spikes on the shoulder pads with Nuln Oil.

At this point I also heavily retouched the lighter bone with equal parts Dead White and Bonewhite.

That's a lot of steps. I should have taken more pictures for this part.

The final step came in painting the leather straps on the arms and swords. For this I used pure Leather Brown followed by a wash of Nuln Oil.

Just about done.

I painted this miniature in two sessions which took a grand total of about 3.5 hours. I am pleased with the way this mini turned out as I was shooting for a really chunky, contrast-y look.

Final paint job

The finished Skeleton Boss

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Travis Williams

Tabletop Editor

Maestro of cardboard and plastic.